The Best Croissant in San Francisco
In 2016 Bon Appétit Magazine crowned Arsicault Bakery the best new bakery in the United States. It’s not hard to see why. Arsicault specializes in the most difficult to master pastry: the croissant. Their croissants are everything you could ever want. The exterior is so delicate and flaky it crunches at the slightest touch, sending flakes fluttering to the ground. Inside the dough is tender and buttery and moist. The base of the croissant is a rich golden brown. It’s perfect.
I ate one croissant and immediately wanted a second. That’s the thing about Arsicault croissants: they’re rich and buttery but not heavy. You won’t be left feeling weighed down. Instead you’ll feel energized enough to wonder, “when can I have another?”
Look at that cross section! The ridiculously flaky exterior gives way to soft layers within.
On a recent trip to San Francisco I had just enough time to visit one final bakery before my flight home. Several bakeries still lingered on my “I’ve gotta eat this” list, so I considered my options. Which pastries would travel home well? Which would reheat well? And, most importantly, which bakery did I truly want to try? After careful consideration and countless photos of pastries I chose Arsicault. I skipped this bakery the last time I was in San Francisco and I’ve regretted it since! I needed to know why Bon Appétit named Arsicault the best bakery in the United States and why many publications consider their croissants the very best in the city. This is all very important research, obviously.
Arsicault has two locations in San Francisco, which is no small feat considering the price of rent in the city. Their main location is in Inner Richland (basically Laurel Heights), which is located mere blocks from the Presidio of San Francisco. You know what sounds like a perfect Sunday? Picking up buttery croissants and hot coffee from Arsicault and then meandering through the winding green Presidio paths. Alas, I didn’t get to do this as I had a mid-morning flight. Luckily their second bakery in the Civic Center was a hop, skip, and a jump from my hotel.
The kouign amann was caramelized to perfection! If you love caramel don’t skip the kouign amann.
There’s only one thing that smells better than freshly baked bread: freshly baked croissants! I smelled the bakery before I saw it. When I stepped through the door I was met with rows of glorious, rich, buttery croissants. The staff was incredibly nice (and patient) as I hemmed and hawed about which to choose. In the end I went with the classics. I got a plain croissant, a ham and cheese croissant, and a kouign amann so I could try the sweet, savory, and original versions.
Just as I sat down, a young skater entered the bakery. He could not have looked more out of place with his long hair slicked back beneath a backwards cap, loose shoelaces, and baggy shorts (grandma would not approve!). With scratched skateboard in hand he surveyed the pastries. “Can I help you?” one of the women behind the counter asked. “Oh yeah,” he said cheerfully. “I’d like an almond croissant!” “Have you tried the others?” the woman asked tentatively. “I’ve tried them all,” he gestured at the glass case, “but I always end up coming back here. These are the best croissants in the city!”
At the table next to me, a man sat quietly. He was looking at his phone — not eating a croissant! — which struck me as odd. He eventually stood up and walked behind the counter and I thought, ah he works here. After carefully moving through the kitchen and checking the freshly baked croissants he walked up to my table. “I hope those croissants were worthy of your photos,” he said pleasantly. “Of course!” I replied. “They’re amazing.” “Well I’m happy to hear that,” he smiled. “Because I’m the owner.”
This ham and cheese croissant was moist on the inside and flaky on the outside. Other bakeries often use ham that’s too thick or too thin but the Arsicault Bakery version was just right. It’s the Goldilocks of ham and cheese croissants!
Owner and baker Armando Lacayo explained how he had recently switched from an American butter brand to Kerrygold. “Now I’ll have to raise my prices,” he told me. “Because Kerrygold is more expensive.” “It’s also more consistent,” I replied. “You don’t have to worry about it. It’s all I use at home.” If the long lines out the door at his Inner Richmond location are any indication, I believe pastry fanatics will be willing to wait for — and pay for — anything he makes.
We talked shop about butter, discussing fat percentages and which countries claim to produce the best. Most people would be bored to tears if I waxed poetic about butter, but Lacayo looked pleased. I asked how he decides on flavors. Apparently he doesn’t. He likes classic croissants best. At Arsicault you won’t see odd spices or wild shapes or exotic fruit. There is nothing to distract from the immense skill and premium ingredients he pours into every croissant. This makes sense. Experimenting with extras would be a lateral move that could potentially bring down the quality of his pastries. Instead, Lacayo is always pushing higher, chasing his ideal of the most pure, most perfect croissant. He’s nearly reached the pinnacle, if you ask me.
