Cooking Class with Yotam Ottolenghi
I did something exciting! I attended a virtual cooking class with Yotam Ottolenghi!!! It was a dream come true. I’ve admired Chef Ottolenghi since I bought his first cookbook Plenty. Through his cookbooks, newspaper columns, and social media, Ottolenghi has encouraged people across the globe to welcome bold, bright, fresh flavors into their homes. Under his magic touch, vegetables are transformed from boring, limp sidekicks into the star of the show. He has expanded the English pantry and improved the home cook’s lexicon. Over the years, I’ve faithfully collected all of his cookbooks. Each book is a treasure trove of knowledge that confirms what I’ve always known to be true: Ottolenghi is in a league of his own.
Ottolenghi shares his tips and tricks for flavorful Middle Eastern food in a series of videos for Masterclass. Masterclass actually hosted this cooking competition as a way for subscribers to connect with Ottolenghi. It was such a great idea! All entrants were asked to submit an original dish inspired by one of Ottolenghi’s Masterclass recipes. His recipe for Green Shakshuka and his love for fresh herbs, big spices, and bright acidity inspired me to create an “Herby Green Pizza.” In true Ottolenghi fashion I topped my pizza with tons of greens, lots of herbs, creamy feta, and juicy panfried mushrooms. Delicious!
On the day of the cooking class I was one of ten winners who tuned in from around the world. One contestant manages a cooking school and another runs her own almond milk company. How cool is that? We were an eclectic and international bunch who all have two things in common. One, we all admire Ottolenghi. And two, we were all incredibly excited for his class!!!! Multiple people had family members “casually” pop into the background. One man’s wife lurked behind him and grinned broadly the entire time. Clearly the Zoom cooking class was the highlight of the week (perhaps the pandemic year) for all of us. It certainly was for me!
During the cooking class, Yotam Ottolenghi taught us how to make mujadara, a dish close to his heart. Yotam said his young children want to eat buttered pasta all day everyday (as kids do) but they’ll agree to eat mujadara too. As a result, this starchy, comforting dish has become a staple in his household. Ottolenghi’s version of mujadara is built upon bulgar wheat, green lentils, and lots of fried and caramelized onions. The second I heard “caramelized onions” I knew I’d love this dish. My college roommates teased me for putting caramelized onions on everything. But you know what? They’re great! I still slather caramelized onions on everything from sandwiches to toast to soup to burgers and beyond. Many things can be improved by a caramelized onion if you ask me.
Ottolenghi sautéed his sliced onions until they became golden brown and silky sweet. Then he added ground cinnamon and allspice berries for warmth. Lentils and bulgar wheat joined the pot and, after a quick twenty minutes, we had a delicious hearty base. Next came the toppings which tied it all together. A dollop of thick Greek yogurt added a cool, creamy tang. A flurry of fresh parsley, lemon juice, plump golden raisins, and tart sumac brought acidity. A crown of crispy onions added crunch. The finished dish was crunchy, creamy, hearty, fresh, and tangy all at once. This seemingly humble dish is in fact a carefully layered traditional Middle Eastern recipe. And, with an Ottolenghi twist, it was absolutely fabulous. If you’re curious about mujadara, there’s a similar recipe in his cookbook Jerusalem, which is one of my favorite cookbooks of all time.
While he cooked, Chef Ottolenghi answered questions. Most people asked questions about cooking techniques or food industry careers. My question was a little more fun and fluffy. I asked Ottolenghi where he wanted to travel post pandemic. His answer? Mexico and Turkey! Ottolenghi said he’d love to eat tacos in Mexico City. Given that he used tons of Mexican chilis throughout his latest cookbook Flavor, this makes sense. Ottolenghi also pictures himself walking the old paved paths of Istanbul with street food in hand. I liked his answers. We all have someplace special we’ve dreamt of traveling this last year, whether it’s a city we’d like to visit for the first time or a well-loved place we’ve seen a hundred times before.
During the cooking class, Ottolenghi came across as genuinely kind. His many restaurants, cookbooks, and projects bear his name, yet Ottolenghi repeatedly praised the people who help make his work possible. For example, when asked which food industry professionals he admires, Yotam praised his talented Ottolenghi Test Kitchen (OTK) staff. He actually plucked his most recent coauthor Ixta Belfrage from the OTK and she has gone on to have a colorful career of her own. I believe his work continues to be innovative and fresh because he collaborates with coauthors and nurtures new talent.
In his most recent cookbook Flavor Ottolenghi continues to coax new depth from vegetables. Ottolenghi and Belfrage explore how four processes — charring, browning, infusing, and aging — can help cooks derive new flavors, textures, and enjoyment from vegetables. All of the recipes are vegetarian and many can easily be made vegan. In fact, there’s not a slice of meat in sight! Although I’m not vegan I appreciate the incredible effort that went into creating innovative dishes that don’t rely on meat products for flavor. Global influences abound, from Middle Eastern spices, Asian techniques, and Mexican chilis. As a result, this cookbook doesn’t fit neatly into the typical categories we use to describe cookbooks. This is not a vegan cookbook; the recipes are for everyone. The flavors are not tied to a specific place; they hail from multiple continents. This isn’t fusion cuisine and it isn’t diet specific. Flavor is — for lack of a better description — utterly Ottolenghi.
After the class my family sat down to a fabulous lunch of mujadara, Israeli chopped salad, and beef kofta. We drank an orange wine from Puglia and enjoyed the beautiful weather. It felt luxurious to indulge in a long, languorous weekend lunch that stretched into the late afternoon. It also felt very Mediterranean. We had a table full of food, glasses full of wine, and a sky full of clouds. It was wonderful! The cooking class and the lovely meal that followed are my idea of heaven. I honestly could not have asked for a better day.
I want to give a shoutout to Masterclass for doing a fabulous job organizing this competition. The two organizers Jessica and Cassie thought of everything. All of the winners received a signed copy of Flavor, a full box of fun ingredients, and the Zoom class itself. Artisanal Foods supplied the “Masterclass Essentials Kit by Yotam Ottolenghi,” which contained sumac, allspice berries, barberries, and stoneground corn. I’m most excited to try the dried cascabel chilies which are known for their beautiful floral heat, as well as the Persian limes which are great for stews. The cooking class was incredible on its own, and the signed cookbook and ingredients were icing on the cake. Jessica even arranged for us to write Ottolenghi a big group thank you card afterwards. This whole experience was honestly so delightful. I really hope they organize more competitions like this one. Again, I want to say a huge thanks to Masterclass for organizing the event. And a huge HUGE thank you to Ottolenghi for generously giving his time and expertise. He has brought so much joy, creativity, and delicious food into my life, and for that I am truly grateful.